Силовая проводка

Для маломощных устройств (магнитол и эквалайзеров, например), как правило, можно использовать уже существующую силовую проводку. Отдельные же усилители (повышенной мощности) потребляют значительно больший ток. Проводка, имеющаяся в автомобиле, на это не рассчитана. Кроме того, поскольку вся она собрана в монтажные жгуты, возникает опасность взаимного влияния “автомобильных” и “звуковых” цепей. Исходя из этого, рекомендуется вести плюсовой провод питания усилителя непосредственно на аккумулятор даже в том случае, когда магнитола является единственным компонентом системы.

Минусовый же провод питания системы обычно соединяют с кузовом машины. Он должен быть максимально коротким, а его сечение – не меньше сечения плюсового провода. Соединение с корпусом следует производить через неокрашенный металл кузова. Если он оцинкован, нужно использовать одну из точек соединения, предусмотренных производителем, во избежание появления помех в системе. Когда кузов автомобиля не новый, переходное сопротивление сварных швов увеличивается, поэтому для уменьшения падения напряжения в этом случае следует минусовый провод также соединить непосредственно с клеммой аккумулятора.

При монтаже силовой проводки нужно прежде всего помнить о соблюдении требований безопасности. Необходимо учитывать: придется ли прокладывать провод по углам, через двери, или в моторном отсеке? Такого рода проблемы предъявляют особые требования к выбору проводки. Она должна быть гибкой, с толстой изоляцией, не размягчаться при высокой температуре и не трескаться при низкой. Особенно это относится к участкам силовой проводки, прокладываемой в моторном отсеке.

Применение жесткого провода с легко трескающейся изоляцией может быть пожароопасно. Чтобы предотвратить возгорание в случае короткого замыкания силового провода, необходимо ввести в цепь плавкий предохранитель. Его устанавливают в разрыв силового провода вблизи от плюсовой клеммы аккумулятора. Держатель предохранителя должен быть надежно закреплен. Ток срабатывания предохранителя выбирают на 20…30 % больше максимально потребляемого системой тока. Это не мешает ее нормальной работе, но гарантирует немедленное отключение цепи при коротком замыкании.

При прокладке силового провода в моторный отсек можно просверлить отверстие в моторном щите или использовать уже имеющиеся около рулевой колонки и монтажного блока. Прокладка провода через отверстия с острыми металлическими краями требует применения резиновых уплотнителей. В моторном отсеке желательно дополнительно защитить провод гофрированной трубкой. Он не должен быть натянут, а в свободных местах его необходимо закрепить с помощью монтажных хомутиков или обвязки.

При выборе силовых проводов учитывают особенности того или иного типа, обращая особое внимание на их сечение. Традиционно его измеряют в единицах American Wire Gauge (AWG), или просто “gauge” (калибр). Провода и аксессуары к ним (распределители, разъемы, держатели предохранителей и пр.) во всем мире выпускают именно под такой маркировкой. Чтобы узнать сечение провода для вашей системы, прежде всего нужно определить максимальный потребляемый ток и длину кабеля. Затем воспользуйтесь сведениями в табл. 1 [5], используемой РАСКА (Российской ассоциацией соревнований и конкурсов по автозвуку) при оценке качества установки.

Для улучшения энергетических показателей системы бортового электропитания параллельно аккумулятору присоединяют конденсатор, причем устанавливают его как можно ближе к наиболее критичному к качеству питания потребителю энергии в аудиосистеме. Это позволит скомпенсировать падение напряжения, возникающее на соединительных проводах на пиках мощности. Установка конденсатора оправдана даже при использовании магнитолы без дополнительных компонентов – в этом случае значительно улучшается воспроизведение пиковых уровней сигнала, звучание перестает быть “зажатым”.

Для определения емкости конденсатора пользуются эмпирически выверенным соотношением – 1 фарада на киловатт. Например, для системы с потреблением энергии 100 Вт подойдет конденсатор 100 000 мкФ. Для магнитолы достаточно конденсатора емкостью 47…68 000 мкФ. Некоторые производители аудиотехники, например, Phoenix Gold, выпускают конденсаторы большой емкости, специально предназначенные для автомобильных аудиосистем, однако их стоимость чрезмерно велика. Практически при мощности усилителей до 50… 100 Вт с успехом можно применить и обычные оксидные конденсаторы большой емкости или батарею из параллельно включенных конденсаторов меньшей емкости. Используя для этой цели конденсаторы широкого применения, нужно ориентироваться на максимально допустимую для них температуру – летом в автомобиле, стоящем на солнцепеке, температура может достигать 50…60 “С. Предпочтение следует отдавать конденсаторам, которые имеют предохранительный клапан (пробку), в крайнем случае – с насечкой на корпусе.

Учитывая изменения напряжения в бортовой сети автомобиля, рабочее напряжение конденсаторов должно быть не менее 16 В. Однако нужно иметь в виду следующее обстоятельство. При выходе из строя регулятора напряжения в бортовой сети оно может подняться с 14 до 18…20 В. поэтому для предотвращения пробоя конденсаторов рабочее напряжение следует выбрать большим – 20…25 В.

Непосредственная зарядка конденсатора большой емкости от бортовой сети опасна. Поэтому для ограничения тока первоначальную зарядку нужно проводить через резистор сопротивлением 10…20 Ом или, что проще, через автомобильную лампу накаливания. Погасание лампы укажет на то, что дальнейшую зарядку можно проводить “напрямую”.

Выключатель применяют любого типа, важно только, чтобы он был рассчитан на максимальный потребляемый системой ток.

Сигнальные цепи и помехи

Правила выбора провода и монтажа цепей питания, о которых шла речь, справедливы и для сильноточных сигнальных цепей. Так, при выборе сечения провода для подключения динамических головок можно с успехом воспользоваться приведенной выше таблицей, уменьшив ток соответственно числу каналов усилителя. Как правило, провода, предлагаемые изготовителем в комплекте с динамическими головками, в большинстве случаев совершенно непригодны для нашей цели. Сопротивление двойного провода длиной 2 м может иногда достигать 0,5…0,7 Ом, что приводит к ощутимым потерям мощности усилителя магнитолы. Поэтому на “колоночных” проводах тоже экономить не стоит.

Особая надежность провода требуется при установке динамических головок в двери автомобиля. Ни в коем случае нельзя пропускать провод “под обивку” – он должен проходить через отверстия в металле двери и стойки, обязательно защищенный направляющей трубкой. Эти меры гарантируют от возможного защемления провода, его перегибов и образования петель.

Прокладка проводов к громкоговорителям обычно не вызывает проблем. Исключение составляют некоторые типы современных автомобилей зарубежного производства. Они настолько насыщены электроникой, что при неудачном монтаже наводки на провода аудиосистемы могут быть ощутимы на слух. Чтобы избежать этого, следует предварительно уточнить местонахождение бортового компьютера и расположение кабелей, по которым происходит обмен данными.

Монтаж межблочной сигнальной проводки заметно влияет на качество звуковоспроизведения. Основная проблема большинства принятых сегодня вариантов компоновки аудиосистемы – большая длина межблочных кабелей. Чаще всего CD-чейнджер размещают в багажнике, а сигнал для регулировки и дальнейшего усиления подается на вход магнитолы, установленной в панели приборов. При наличии дополнительного усилителя его обычно тоже располагают в багажнике, поэтому длина кабеля как минимум удваивается. Собственная емкость при такой длине уже может оказывать влияние на передачу верхних частот. Поэтому входное сопротивление автомобильных усилителей и линейных входов магнитол весьма низкое (порядка 10 кОм). Несмотря на это. лучший выход из положения – рациональная компоновка системы и использование межблочных кабелей минимально необходимой длины. Спрятанные “с глаз долой” излишки кабеля могут ухудшить воспроизведение высших частот.

Для решения проблемы наводок наиболее широко используются два способа – повышение выходного напряжения источников сигнала и применение дифференциальных (балансных) линий связи. Соответственно тому, как выполнены линейные выходы источника сигнала и вход усилителя, выбирают и тип межблочных соединений.

Применение балансных линий характерно для компонентов высокой ценовой категории и гарантирует прекрасную помехозащищенность. Напряжение сигнала поступает на входы дифференциального усилителя в противофазе, а помехи – в фазе и подавляются.

Однако это справедливо только при полной симметрии пинии. Использование симметричного входа с несимметричным выходом (и наоборот) сводит на нет все преимущества этой схемы. В данном случае лучшее решение – применить симметрирующее устройство, наиболее изящное – трансформатор, но для обеспечения необходимых качественных показателей он может оказаться слишком дорогим.

Основные источники помех в автомобиле – система зажигания, создающая трески, и генератор, помеха от которого ощущается как тональная с переменной частотой. Помехи от системы зажигания полностью исключить нельзя, но можно значительно уменьшить. В автомобилях с традиционной (контактной) системой зажигания применение распределителя зажигания со встроенным помехоподавляющим резистором или высоковольтных проводов с распределенным сопротивлением позволяет значительно снизить мощность помех. Дальнейшее снижение уровня помех обеспечит экранированный кабель.

Помехи от работы генератора могут быть вызваны плохим состоянием коллектора и регулятора напряжения. Но даже при идеальном его состоянии при наличии в системе нескольких компонентов помехи могут прослушиваться из-за неправильно выполненного заземления. Если в аудиосистеме существует несколько точек заземления, то при соединении компонентов между собой образуется паразитный контур. Вот почему нельзя допускать соединения общего провода компонентов между собой через межблочные кабели. По этой же причине экран не должен служить сигнальным проводником.

Реализовать это условие просто: при самостоятельном монтаже разъемов на кабель экран с одной стороны не припаивают. При использовании готовых кабелей лепестки RCA-штекера можно изолировать от корпуса разъема тонким слоем изоляционной ленты. Такой же способ позволит выяснить, с какой стороны лучше изолировать экран – со стороны источника сигнала или со стороны усилителя. Если же и эта мера не поможет, остается использовать для всей системы единственную точку заземления, лучше всего – на минусовой клемме аккумулятора.

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